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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.